Review of Lucky Cat - 22 Bishopsgate

22 Bishopsgate’s crystalline structure shoots up from the hustle and bustle of London’s Square Mile. Its almost icy peak promises peace and tranquillity from the traffic below. Gordon Ramsay has taken the helm of this magnificent building, gradually transforming its uppermost floors into multiple culinary experiences in arguably his biggest and most challenging undertaking to date. Promising 360° panoramic views and flavour-packed, Asian-inspired food, Gordon Ramsay has taken his Lucky Cat restaurant to quite literally new heights, and we couldn’t wait to try it out.

On arrival, we are guided up a series of security checkpoints, escalators and front-of-house team members to find “the lift”. The instruction is “don’t call the lift”, which sort of has you feeling on one hand, special, like the lift knows you are here, but also slightly anxious (does it really know we are here?). Fortunately it was the latter, and before we knew it we are rocketing up 60 floors at some speed.

For a statement restaurant, by a household-name restaurateur in a statement building, we are expecting something special and it delivered in bucketloads. Industrial girders and exposed ductwork take on an almost god-like presence, looming behind sophisticated globes of planetary lighting. A ginormous dining area of dark wood and luxurious marble finishes sweeps round a lantern-endowed bar. The 360º windows provide a panorama of London rarely experienced. In the UK, only the Shard is taller.

The menu offers largely Japanese options, dotted with other Asian influences: Raw Bar, Sashimi, Maki, Meat, Fish and a whole world of Wagyu. We feel totally comfortable selecting a few dishes to start sharing, then adding to the order as we see fit.

Each dish has the exquisite and delicate presentation you’d hope for. The sashimi selection of sea bass, yellowtail and salmon is so wonderfully soft, almost buttery in texture. Maki with a salty wagyu hat are divine, and the baby squid is so light and crisp. Our prawn and lobster gyozas are insane, a veritable umami mouth party (deffo a firm favourite).

We move onto meat and fish with beautifully charred slices of iberico pork, drizzled with mustard seeds. A side of kimchi-pickled gem dials the flavour up a few notches. Perhaps our favourite dish of the day is a triumphant Korean-spiced black cod. The delicate white fish is dressed to the nines in a vibrant and punchy sauce, it’s out to impress, and it succeeds.

An apple treacle cake, which looks as good as it tastes, rounds up a spectacular lunch. A sailboat-esque sweet structure with thin apple sails changes flavour as it sails past your tastebuds.

Any Lucky Cat establishment, let’s face it, is a treat. It may not be somewhere you’re going to drop into every day for lunch or an after-work dinner. But dining out should be a treat, and 22 Bishopsgate is an experience to behold. We don’t want to do the food a disservice by urging you to go just for the view, but my word it is spectacular and as it happens, the food is every bit as good as the vista. Hats off, Gordon.

Address: 22 Bishopsgate, London, EC2N 4BQ

For more information or to book click here.

Written by Rick Hartley