Review of Via Emilia, Notting Hill: A homage to northern Italian pasta

Tucked away on All Saints Road, Via Emilia feels like the kind of place you only find once you’ve earned your Notting Hill stripes. We ducked in after a leisurely circuit of Westbourne Grove, shopping bags in hand, people-watching quota fulfilled and settled into what became a long, cosy late lunch.

We visited on a Sunday afternoon, but the room still hummed gently with foodie appreciation. The interior of the restaurant is light and airy, with white marble, dark-stained wood and flashes of copper and aged steel lending a modern edge to a deeply traditional Italian soul. Service is disarmingly warm. The kind of staff who genuinely want you to eat well, drink better, and understand why and what’s on your plate.

We started with their signature dish, Gnocco Fritto. This is Via Emilia’s calling card and, frankly, a must-order. Lightly fried pillows of bread arrive warm and yielding, designed to be torn apart by hand (as tradition demands) and paired with outstanding Emilian meats and cheeses. The trio of Prosciutto di Parma, Coppa from Piacenza and Salame Felino is exemplary, while a scoop of Squacquerone  soft, tangy and gloriously indulgent, ties everything together. On our server’s recommendation, I ordered a cup of chilled Lambrusco “La Favorita”, served properly in a small china bowl, once tasted, you’ll understand why this combination borders on cult status in Emilia-Romagna.

Pasta is the heart of the menu, and Via Emilia takes it seriously. Their egg pasta is made by hand, in-house, one portion at a time, using a higher yolk content than most London kitchens dare. Portions are traditionally sized which is to say, refreshingly sensible and the advice to share three dishes between two people is good.

The Spaghit à l’ai, oli e pavrónzin from Ferrara is beautifully restrained: garlic, excellent olive oil, parsley and chilli, served without parmesan, exactly as it should be. The Reginètti ai funghi showcases crowned tagliatelle slicked with a deeply aromatic mix of mushrooms and prized porcini from the mountains near Parma. And then there’s the heavyweight: Tajadèl bulgnaisi col ragù, using the official Bolognese recipe registered in 1982, rich, balanced, and quietly confident.

To accompany our fresh pasta, we ordered a glass of MOMA Red from Bologna, a smooth, evolving blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which proved an excellent all-rounder, the range of deep, crisp flavours unfurling gently with each sip.

Dessert is comfortingly classic. We ordered a slice of Chocolate salame, a kind of Italian, highly elevated rocky road, served as a slim slice its indulgent without being heavy, while the light tiramisu does exactly what it promises and is very easy eating, accompanied by fresh coffee, served strong and unapologetically Italian.

Via Emilia is, at heart, a personal project: one man’s devotion to the food of his home region, executed with care, integrity and excellent value. For locals, it’s a reminder of why neighbourhood restaurants still matter. For visitors, it’s a chance to eat like you’re genuinely in northern Italy, no gimmicks, no shortcuts, just deeply satisfying food done right.

Go hungry. Order generously. Trust the pasta.

Via Emilia Notting is open for bookings and hungry walk-ins, with additional locations in Shoreditch and Fitzrovia.

To book click here.

Address: 12 All Saints Rd, London, W11 1HH

Written by Claire Bloom

Photography courtesy of Via Emilia