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Park Row – Review
FOOD

Park Row – Review

Walking down the dark wet streets of Soho’s Berwick street, we are invited through the entrance of a beautiful Grade II Listing building, into what appears to be the study of Wayne Manor. Following a brief welcome, our host nudges the bookcase to invite us through a secret door into the underworld. With its colourful history, Soho seems like the perfect location for a venue inspired by Gotham’s nefarious residents.

We descend down a spiral staircase, where lights pulsating through the centre add a touch of theatre, and the Joker cards on the wall appear to follow you. Through the curtains at the bottom, we are transported into a large, art deco hall to accompany the wreckless and the wicked for an evening of fine dining and cocktails.

The nods to DC’s most famous city are refreshingly subtle here. Those expecting a theme bar may be disappointed but we think that’s one of the strengths. Think more along the lines of 1920s New York glamour rather than comic-con. The artwork looks as if it has been curated by the Joker himself and adds to the dastardly ambience. An almost cage-like centre stage features music from the in-house performer who provides the soundtrack to our dinner.

The menu is provided by Executive Chef Alyn Williams, formerly of the Westbury. We opt for the set 3-course menu at a very reasonable £35 per person including the signature Mademoiselle Marie Cocktail. The bright red gin-based drink is a little on the sweet side thanks to it’s cherry cordial. As we peruse the menu, a curious machine on wheels approaches, offering a complimentary snack of “Nitro popcorn”, sweet, but smokey in taste and steaming with liquid nitrogen.

Starters is a delicate ham hock and chicken terrine punctuated with pickled black walnut. Perfect for mounting onto a slice of delicious sourdough. This is followed by 2 chunks of deliciously tender braised beef cheek and sweet roasted shallot. The accompanying creamy horseradish sauce adds a welcome moisture to the dish with a subtle punch. A side dish of roasted carrots, smoked almonds and crème fraîche is surprisingly one of my highlights of the meal.

As we wait for our dessert, we are approached again by one of the venue’s interesting hosts, who presents us with Thomas Gainsborough’s famous Blue Boy painting. Batman Buffs may get the reference but for those who don’t, look it up. The painting is tilted toward my glass, spilling out a bright blue drink of 18 Patron Reposado tequila, St Germain Elderflower liqueur, Galiano L’Autentico liqueur, RinQuinQuin a la Peche liqueur, lime. We appreciate the theatrics.

Full of food and cocktails, the dessert would be a welcome light bite. We made a special exception however, to a moist and indulgent panettone bread and butter pudding, dotted with melting chocolate and partnered with a burnt orange ice cream.

You may not spot a fully-suited Riddler or Poison Ivy serving your food, but Park Row has more sophistication than that. It’s most definitely an evening to impress a guest in a stunning venue and at a very reasonable price.

Book online at: www.www.parkrowlondon.co.uk Address: 77 Brewer St, London, W1F 9ZN Written by Nyla S.

Photography courtesy of Park Row

#AlynWilliams #DC #parkrow #soho

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