Nandine – A Kurdish feasting from Pary Baban – Review

As temperatures drop our first instinct is to turn to warmer blankets, candles and comforting foods like soups, stews and hearty bakes. So as we stepped inside the candlelight warmth of Nandine on a chilly autumn evening we knew we were in for a treat. Fresh flowers decorated the long dining table with handwritten rustic place names and a special 10-course menu “Ahang” designed for one night only.

We started with brightly-coloured crunchy and tangy traditional Kurdistan pickles, designed I’m sure as a palate cleanser for the feast ahead. This was followed by a Palpina soup with fried onions then Dandok, an amazing dish with a garlic roasted tomato on a bed of strained yoghurt and cracked wheat with zatar. It tasted like a creamy hug in a bowl and the entire table was ooing and aahing at how delicious it was. You may have tried Dolma before, popular in Greece but Pary’s were longer, served warm and with some succulent green beans. Most dishes are small plate style, designed to be shared and enjoyed in a group, with vegetarian and vegan options available.

Our main courses threw up some memorable flavours and I’d be hard pressed to decide between Qibuli Rash  slow cooked mutton chunks served over smoked rice or the Bal chicken wings with tangy tamarind and pomegranate seeds. The stunning presentation of the Lula Kebab with a tasty flatbread, spicy chilli dip, yoghurts and grilled veg had us all reaching for a portion to try despite feeling rather full.  Even the desserts were beautifully presented and a fitting end to the feast.

We were delighted when Pary came out of the kitchen with her family to tell us her story from refugee to chef to restaurant owner, and her next move finding a publisher for her fantastic recipes, kept since she was 18 and all handwritten.

I suggest you book a visit as soon as you can.

Address: 45 Camberwell Church Street, Southwark, London, SE5 8TR

Written by Claire Selby

Photography courtesy of Nadine

#kurdish #kurdishfood #nadine