Review of The Brook & Badger

Tucked into the leafy enclave of Munster Village, The Brook and Badger feels like a pub that understands its audience. There’s an easy confidence to the space, warm, softly lit, and quietly elegant, where elegantly aged leather seating and Farrow & Ball painted wood panelling create an atmosphere of relaxation and style.

On the evening of our visit, the outside covered terrace was already humming: a well-heeled crowd was settling in for after-work drinks before the sun went down.  We chose to dine inside, as it was still a little nippy for me. Once through the doors, intimate tables flickered with candlelight, and a gentle buzz carried through the space.

Service is friendly and attentive without being intrusive, allowing the meal to unfold at a relaxed, unhurried pace, glass of Montepulciano in hand.

We began with the fried chicken wings from the ‘nibbles’ menu, not my normal go-to dish, but upon tasting these golden gems, I was deeply impressed, the crisp coating was crunchy and light, no oiliness, just subtly crispy with tender, juicy meat beneath. The sriracha honey glaze was just enough to make the dish pop with that sweet/savoury punch that really hits the spot.

Alongside the wings, we sampled the asparagus with salsa verde. The spears were cooked with precision, retaining their bite, while the salsa verde cut through with bright herbs and acidity, making the dish fresh and vibrant. Using seasonal produce makes all the difference. High-quality ingredients meant the dish sang with the promise of springtime.

The Montepulciano d'Abruzzo proved an excellent wine companion throughout. Medium-bodied and generously fruited, it offered notes of dark cherry and plum with a gentle spice, its soft tannins and easy structure pairing particularly well with the umami sweetness of the wings and the depth of the steak to come.

For mains, the 200g hanger steak delivered exactly what one hopes for in a gastropub classic. Cooked with confidence, it arrived beautifully caramelised on the outside, blushing within, and full of flavour. The fries were crisp and golden, with either skinny or chunky (always good to have the option) available. The roast salmon provided a lighter counterpoint. Expertly cooked, the fish was just set, its flesh moist and delicate. A fondant potato added buttery richness, yielding effortlessly under the fork, while samphire introduced a subtle saline note. The chimichurri, bright and herbaceous, tied everything together with a fresh lift. The sauce was expertly balanced and not too heavy on onion, which can make it bitter.

Desserts feature trusted gastro-pub recipes with an elevated twist. We chose the lemon tart, made with crumbly, buttery shortbread and fluffy lemon curd, with just a spoonful of crème fraiche, which rounded the dish nicely.

To finish our experience, we relaxed with a peppermint and coffee, the overall ambience inviting one to linger, and had it not been a Monday night, more wine may have flowed. But we left feeling satisfied, having fully enjoyed our evening. The Brook and Badger is a place that feels both destination-worthy and deeply rooted in the local community. The Fulham crowd will be very much at home in this establishment; good food, friendly atmosphere, quality booze, and a buzzy terrace are sure to make this spot a winner in the summer.

To book and for more information click here.

Written by Claire Bloom

Photography courtesy of The Brook and Badger