Review of Sycamore at Middle Eight in Covent Garden

Set just a couple of streets away from the throng of Covent Garden and nestled inside the luxurious 5-star Middle Eight hotel, Sycamore feels like somewhere you can ease into rather than arrive at with intent. We went for a late lunch after a spot of shopping, and ended up staying into the early evening, which probably tells you more about the place than anything else.

The hotel’s interiors are worth noting because they help to shape the overall experience. Award-winning, but not in an obvious way. There’s a strong organic thread running through the design: natural wood, soft curves, and a relaxed sense of flow throughout the space. The long, curved bar stands out as the focal point in what is a very large bar/restaurant space, its ceiling festooned with an ambling, bronze laser-cut leaf design, accentuating the grand height of the room.

Staff at Middle Eight are on the ball and friendly. After being greeted and shown to our table, lunch was unhurried. The dining room has a relaxed, low-key vibe, tables are generous, large enough to spread out, with booth seating ideal for business meetings as well as social gatherings. The restaurant menu leans into rustic Italian, and we started with a classic dish - mushroom arancini. Crunchy on the outside with a rich interior, with the mushroom coming through properly rather than getting lost. The basil aioli added a clean, herbal lift. The crunch was notable, actually one of the best arancini I’ve had in a long-time.

The chargrilled chicken skewers were served in a very decent-sized portion and were thoughtfully presented. The lemon, thyme, and smoked paprika came through well, nothing overpowering, just a satisfying balance. For mains, I went for the miso-glazed aubergine, which turned out to be a highlight. The aubergine itself was cooked down to that point where it becomes almost creamy, taking on the miso glaze, sweet and umami. The Asian slaw alongside the sesame and chilli cut through with freshness and a bit of texture, which kept the dish from feeling too rich.

The wild mushroom risotto, made with farro grains rather than rice, had a bit more bite and nuttiness than a classic risotto. The king oyster mushrooms gave it depth, and the aged parmesan brought that necessary sharpness to round it out, a quality filling dish. 

Everything worked particularly well with a light, crisp Sicilian organic white wine, clean, mineral, and bright enough to carry through the meal without dominating it. A very ‘easy drinking’ wine. The restaurant has a selection from many notable vineyards and organic offerings.

Dessert was an almond chocolate cake infused with orange. Made with almond flour, it had a light, slightly nutty texture. The orange lifted it just enough, keeping it from leaning too heavily into sweetness. A good finale dish for sharing, with the help of leafy green tea and a smooth aromatic Chai latte.

The pricing is sensible, à la carte starters and light bites around £10.00 and mains in the region of £20.00, with a set pre-theatre menu available from £33.00pp, making it excellent value for a central London restaurant.

Beyond the food, Sycamore opens out into different moods. The bar leans into that Italian aperitivo feel, wine, small plates, a bit of movement and music as the evening builds. Check the website for weekly vinyl DJ sets and live performances.

We went for a late lunch and ended up staying into the early evening without really noticing the shift. Sycamore, much like Middle Eight itself, manages to be both relaxed and considered.

Address: Middle Eight Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, London, WC2B 5BX

For more information, click here.

Written by Claire Bloom

Photography by Emma Pharaoh