17/09/26

Review of Kanishka in Mayfair

Tucked away on Maddox Street in Mayfair, Kanishka is Atul Kochhar’s take on contemporary Indian dining, elegant, imaginative and full of familiar flavours approached from a slightly different angle. Kochhar is one of the best-known names in Indian cooking in Britain. In 2001, while at Tamarind, he became the first Indian chef to receive a Michelin star, later earning another at Benares. He opened Kanishka in 2019, originally drawing inspiration from the lesser-explored cuisines of north-east India, although today the menu travels more widely across the subcontinent.

Inside, it has a distinctly Mayfair polish. Lavish mirrored walls bring a little glamour, softened by warm lighting and intimate tables that make the space feel surprisingly cosy. It is smart without feeling overly formal, somewhere that works rather nicely for a long dinner.

The staff are also genuinely knowledgeable. Plenty is going on in some of these dishes, and having someone explain an unfamiliar spice or the thinking behind a particular combination adds to the experience without making dinner feel like a lesson. The wine and cocktails list is expertly curated, with classic cocktails and some quirky house specials. For our meal, we wanted to keep our palate fresh to fully appreciate the delicate spices and refined textures of the menu to follow, opting for a light chilled glass of Gavi di Gavi.

A few little surprises to begin

Before the starters arrived, we were treated to a selection of amuse-bouches – tiny, delicate flavour bombs that gave us our first hint of the kitchen’s more playful side. Beautifully presented, they were intricate little mouthfuls with unexpected flavours and textures, and a rather lovely way to begin.

To start

We had to try the Chicken Tikka Pie, one of Kanishka’s house specialities and a dish that immediately caught our attention. It is an unlikely-sounding marriage of British comfort food and Indian spice: beautifully seasoned chicken tikka tucked inside crisp pastry and served with a sharp berry chutney. Yet there is nothing gimmicky about it. The pastry, spice and slightly tart fruit work remarkably well together, making this one of those dishes you remember afterwards. Next came the Rosemary Seekh Kebab, with succulent spiced lamb given an aromatic lift from rosemary and accompanied by mint chutney and pickled onions. Rosemary isn't necessarily the first flavour you expect to find in a seekh kebab, but here it adds a subtle freshness rather than competing with the spices.

Onto the mains

The halibut was one of the most interesting dishes of the evening, and no surprise it came highly recommended by our waiter. The dish did not disappoint and arrived with perfectly flaky fish, served with a delicate coconut sauce with a gentle sweetness to it. There was something reminiscent of the creamy, comforting flavours we associate with a korma, but the idea had been pared back and reworked into something altogether lighter and more sophisticated. Sea vegetables and soft tapioca pearls brought contrasting textures, but it was that slightly sweet coconut sauce with the fish that stayed with us. A clever use of a very recognisable Indian flavour profile without simply recreating the original dish.

We then moved into richer territory with the Ahuna Gosht Curry, slow-cooked lamb with chilli, fennel and aromatic stone flower. Deeply flavoured and warming, this was the dish that called for something to scoop up the sauce. The Kanishka Signature Black Dal did very well alongside it. Dark, creamy and comforting, it was perhaps one of the least showy things on the table and one of the dishes we kept quietly going back to.

Sweet finish

Dessert was the Chocolate and Nariyal Rocher – Valrhona milk chocolate, coconut crémeux, mud sponge and cardamom ice cream. Chocolate and coconut make natural companions, but it was the cardamom ice cream that made the dish particularly interesting, cutting through the richness with its cool, fragrant spice. And just when dinner appeared to be over, sweet almond petit fours arrived at the table. These final delicate little bites rather neatly echoed the amuse-bouches that had started the meal.

What we liked about Kanishka is that the cooking doesn't seem intent on reinventing Indian food simply for the sake of it. Instead, familiar flavours appear in slightly unexpected places. Chicken tikka finds its way into a beautifully made pie; the gentle sweetness of coconut is used to bring an almost korma-like quality to delicate halibut; rosemary slips quietly into a seekh kebab. There is creativity here, but also a reassuring sense of familiarity.

There are also the smaller details that make a dinner memorable: those tiny amuse-bouches arriving before you have really begun, the selection of popadom and dips at the start where a cut above, staff who can genuinely talk you through what you're eating, and the unexpected almond petit fours appearing when you think you've finished.

Add the mirrored walls, flattering lighting and intimate tables and Kanishka feels very much at home in Mayfair – polished and glamorous, certainly, but with enough warmth to make you want to settle in rather than simply admire the surroundings. Located just off Regent Street and 5 minutes from Oxford Circus tube, the restaurant is ideally situated for post-work/post-shopping as well as special occasions.

Address: Kanishka by Atul Kochhar 17–19 Maddox Street, Mayfair, London W1S 2QH

For more information click here.

Words and photography by Claire Bloom

PerfectTed celebrates 5th Birthday with free matcha and cake

FOOD

Michelin-Starred Chef Woongchul Park brings Korean Fried Chicken to Flat Iron Square

FOOD

Review of ALFI in Spitalfields Market

FOOD

Noodle & Beer Celebrates Mid-Autumn Festival with Mooncakes and Cocktail Pairings

Interview with Jillian and Michael – Founders of London Meditation Centre

Nov 14, 2022

4 min read

Updated: May 28, 2024

This week we caught up with Jillian and Michael – Founders of London Meditation Centre to talk about Vedic meditation, the benefits and why Oprah Winfrey and Paul McCartney would be fascinating guests on Michael’s podcast – Speaking of Meditation.

How did your journey in meditation start?

Jillian: I came to Vedic Meditation in 1997, back when meditation was still quite “weird”. I had no idea what it could do for me, although I had witnessed the impact it had on a dear friend who went from full-blown insomniac to sleeping every night very quickly. I was tired and rapidly approaching burn out. And I just had a feeling I needed to do something about it sooner rather than later. I went to a talk with my soon-to-be teacher and could see very quickly that it wasn’t all brown rice and sandals, and it was going to help. One week later, I was meditating every day, and noticing big changes.

Michael: I first dabbled in meditation all the way back in 1988 when a University professor told me how good it was. I didn’t learn properly but I experimented with different styles for about 10 years. Later, a friend learned Vedic Meditation, and I saw so much change in her, I got really interested. I was at a point in my life when I was working too hard and playing too hard, and I knew something needed to change. I learned, and right away I was sleeping better, feeling calmer, and thinking more clearly. There was no looking back.

When did you decide to start up London Meditation Centre?

Jillian: I’d been teaching Vedic Meditation in London for a few years. When Michael became a Vedic Meditation teacher in 2007, we started operating as London Meditation Centre, and New York Meditation Center also.

What type of meditation do you teach at the London Meditation Centre?

Michael: We teach Vedic Meditation, the oldest technique of meditation in the world, also the most scientifically studied. It’s known as an automatic self-transcending technique. That means you’re not focussing or concentrating. You’re also not trying to be mindful of anything. By silently repeating a mantra, chosen for you by the teacher, you automatically quiet the mind, and rest the body very deeply.

What benefits do people get from meditation?

Michael: A 20-minute sitting of Vedic Meditation delivers a level of rest that’s many times deeper than sleep. And it’s that deep rest that allows for the mind and body to release stress and come back into balance. Sleep gets better, energy levels rise, stress and anxiety reduces, you gain clarity and focus, and health improves. For the full story of the benefits of meditation, you should check out Jillian’s book, Why Meditate? Because it Works, where she explains the science behind what’s happening when the body gets such an unprecedented level of rest. Vedic Meditation is changing the brain and the biochemistry of the body, and this has a huge impact on emotional balance and physical health.

Jillian: One of the most inspiring ways to understand the impact of this is to hear people’s stories — how meditation has changed their lives. Michael’s podcast, Speaking of Meditation, really showcases the impact that meditators experience.

You have recently come back from a retreat in India, which sounded amazing, do you have any more retreats you are organising?

Jillian: Oh yes! We offer 3-4 meditation retreats each year for our students. These are a great way to take a deep dive and accelerate your progress. India, Devon, Portugal and Upstate New York are some of the areas we like to go.

Michael, who would be your ideal guest on your podcast?

Michael: I can think of two people who have learned to meditate who would be fascinating to interview: Oprah Winfrey and Paul McCartney.

Oprah’s so tapped into wellness and self-development, it would be really interesting to talk with her about how she sees meditation affecting aspects of her own life and the people she knows.

With Paul, I’d want to talk about the burst of creativity he and The Beatles experienced when they first learned to meditate, as well as the longevity of his career and creative energy, and how he thinks meditation has affected that.

Jillian, we loved reading your book Why Meditate? Because it works. For those who haven’t read it yet, what nugget of information can you reveal that will make a difference to someone seeking calm and peace?

Jillian: If you have tried to meditate, and it didn’t “work”, or you didn’t feel like you were doing it right, my message to you is that you can meditate. It’s all about getting the right technique — working with the mind, rather than fighting the mind. If you can think, you can meditate.

What would your ideal day in London be like?

Both: We love going out for a nice brunch. One of our favourite spots is Grangers & Co. Jillian used to go to Bill Granger’s original restaurant in Sydney when she lived there. Then we’d take a walk and head over to a gallery, perhaps the Royal Academy or the Tate Modern, we like it down there on the Southbank. On a Sunday we enjoy going to a farmer’s market as a family (we have a 9 year old daughter) – the one at Herne Hill is a recent find. There’s a great spot for lunch called Llewelyn’s right by the station, and a charming bookshop to browse.

For more information on London Meditation Centre visit: https://www.londonmeditationcentre.com/learn-to-meditate

Jillian’s book: www.londonmeditationcentre.com/why-meditate-because-it-works Michael’s podcast: www.londonmeditationcentre.com/speaking-of-meditation-podcast

Photography by Nyla Sammons

#londonmeditationcentre #meditation #nottinghill #wellness